toad's RV-8

        

29 MAR 09 - Drilled, Deburred, and Prekoted Rear Spar Components - 6.0 Hours

I clamped and drilled the W-707E and W-707F Spar Reinforcement Plates.

Drilling W-707-E and W-707-F to the Rear Wing Spar

You use the spar as the drilling guide and after the W-707E is drilled, you must make a cutout (using the spar as a template) for the aileron pushrod.

Drilling W-707-E to the Rear Wing Spar

I used a unibit in my drill to make some initial holes and then I found the two most useful tools in my Dremel kit for removing aluminum:

Cutter and Grinding Wheel Used to Remove Aluminum
The one on the left is a sort of universal cutting tool, which works very well for cutting and shaping the aluminum. I also used the grinding wheel on the left.

Once that was done, I clamped the thicker spar root reinforcement fork and plate to the spar and reamed the holes using the #30 reamer. I use the reamer wherever I can due to the nice smooth hole that it creates.

Drilling the Rear Spar Reinforcement Fork and Plate
Make sure and mark orientation and sides of all your parts!

I drilled and dimpled all of the appropriate places on the spar and W-707-E and F flanges where they meet. Additionally, you will not be able to dimple the aft (upper) flange of the rear spar once the reinforcement fork is in place, so you have to dimple there now. I also dimpled (instead of countersinking) the spar and W-707-F where the outboard-most row of rivets go.   

Then I deburred everything.

Parts after Prekote
Here are all of the parts after Prekote. You can see where I dimpled the W-707F reinforcement plate for the outward most row of rivets. The outboard most rib will need to be dimpled accordingly. I will post more detailed photos when I rivet the rear spar components together.


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